For those who don’t know about Taktsang Monastery (Bhutan):
Taktshang
Monastery was built in 1632. It is said
to be constructed at the precise location where Guru Padmasambhava, the harbinger of Mahayana Buddhism in Bhutan, had meditated. Taktsang literally
means "Tiger's lair",
According to the legend related to this, it is believed that
Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) flew to this location,
in 8th century, from Tibet on the back of a tigress from
Khenpajong. This place was
consecrated to tame the Tiger demon. An alternative legend holds that a former
wife of an emperor, known as Yeshe Tsogyal, willingly became a
disciple of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambahva) in Tibet. She transformed herself
into a flying tigress and carried the Guru on her back from Tibet to the
present location of the Taktsang in Bhutan. In one of the caves here, the Guru
then performed meditation and emerged in eight incarnated forms and the place became holy. Subsequently, the
place came to be known as the “Tiger's Nest”. I t is also said that after the
death of Guru Rinpoche in Nepal, his body was said
to have been miraculously returned to the monastery by the grace of the deity
Dorje Legpa; it is now said to be sealed in a chorten in a room to the left at
the top of the entrance stairway. For all these, and many more reasons
Tanktsang monastery has become an important site of pilgrimage for Buddhists.
From the 11th century, many Tibetan saints and eminent figures have meditated
in Taktsang in order to attain great realisations.
Our experience of the trek:
We
really didn't know all that! As we reached Bhutan on the eve of Losar (Bhutanese New Year), we couldn't get permit for Punakha, which in a way gave us a day’s off. Desperate
to make full use of our trip , my brother and I decided to “ try out some
trekking” . We asked Vicki Bhaiya(driver cum owner of the Beat, provided to us
by the travel agent) to suggest us --- a
one day trek route. He promptly served us with the idea of trekking to Taktsang
Monastery. He said, “ If you are an expert hiker you would need two and a half
to three hours to reach the monastery.
But I feel your parents would not be able to make it.” To the last statement,
even my parents agreed. Coming to us, we were
more eager to test ourselves than finding out information about our
destination.
Vicki
Bhaiya drove us through the silent
valley of dry apple orchards to the foothills from where our trek would begin. We
reached there around 8:30 A.M. It appeared to be a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site.
The first thing we noticed was a man selling
walking sticks for fifty bucks. We wanted to take it, but on rent,
because it would be useless after the trek. He refused. Instead he suggested,”
You young people! Why would you need walking sticks? Go just like that!!!” We
bought his advice and started our uphill trail. There we also promised the girls
who were selling curios that we would “have a look” at their stalls on our way
back.
Honestly
speaking, it was not a kind of trek where we would have to scale a mountain.
It was rather a difficult hike where the track was made by mule hoofs and the
steps were wedged by tree barks and mountain rocks. A reproachful local veteran
along with his lithe legged acolyte preceded us. I noticed that they were
walking in some divine tandem. It looked quite clear that the veteran had been
to this place quite a lot of time. May be he had some beautiful memories
associated with this place. May be wanted to re-live and relish those memories by ruminating on them while trotting up the
hill! Or maybe he just knew the adequate tempo of the trek. I really don’t know
for which particular reason, the man and his accomplice were walking at a slow
pace. That is why, they fell behind us while we moved ahead.
My
brother being a fitness freak, could climb
fast. Moreover, his 6’’2’ height, like always, provided natural boost to his
speed. Compared to him I am rather puny. That is why, while he was walking in
leaps and bounds, I was staggering and gasping for breath.
So
I considered distracting myself by plugging in my headphones and listening to
music. Gradually ,my mind started pondering :
If
God had made man in his own shape, why had he crippled ‘man with limitations
and restrictions? God must have made the unconquerable mountains in his own
shape. Or the unfathomable oceans in his own shape. Maybe the lethal snakes or
the mighty lions, or the soaring falcon ….. Man has been cowed down by many such
elements since times begun. Then why man calls himself done in the shape of
God? God must be looking like the great banyan tree who is ageless and
benevolent with his resources….All these creations have infinite energy to understand and work
according to the WILL OF GOD. Unlike them, we even manipulate God . Like the
construction of the monastery at the epoch point. The monument itself stands as an example
of man trying to overpower and interfere with Nature. If that be the case, from
where did man find the energy? How could man’s defiance of his shortcomings, be
his driving force? What is pulling my brother up? From where is he finding his
energy? Is finding energy a matter of practice
?I should have accepted my limitations and brought a walking stick. How
dare I consider myself indomitable?
By
then, I had started having palpitations. I could actually feel the Eve’s curse
running from my peritoneal region to every minute cell of my body. I called my
brother. Poor soul, he rushed down. I could see that he had become nervous. His
face was turning as pale as mine. Actually, he too was suffering with me,
though vicariously. I was nauseated and moaning with stomach ache. I could hear
my brother say: “Energy is a state of mind. Buck up! Buck up!” But my body
seemed to be a burden for me....a load that I could not carry anymore . Suddenly I
felt some acidic liquid gorging out of
my mouth. I vomited all that I could. That made me feel relieved.
Seeing me coming back to myself, my
brother gave a sigh of relief. But he insisted me to wait at the cafeteria till he completed the trek after which we
would get down together. He was too afraid to take the risk of letting me come
along with him. I was also taken over by
dilemma. I was feeling better, but couldn't muster the confidence. Then we saw that
veteran with his acolyte crossing us. I
asked them , “ How far is it?” The man uttered, “ Not very far! Just one-third
is left. Surrender yourself to the will of the All Mighty and he will take you
there. After all, energy is a state of mind. It comes from divine submission.”
I
resumed my trek. I was feeling much better. I had submitted myself to the
infinite energy named God. The energy that makes mountains unconquerable and
oceans unfathomable, the energy that made the monastery get built …. The energy
that is quintessence of life…. irrespective
of all shapes, size and forms. The energy that is all pervasive.
And
guess what, the energy carried us right into the Tiger’s Nest, the precise
location where Guru Rinpoche meditated and took eight incarnations.It is a 40 feet
deep cavern. The end could be reached only by treading four flights of
precariously adjusted planks transformed into ladders. We reached till the end.
Surprisingly, I was not scared, even
while standing at the edge of the cliff face. Actually, by then, I had submitted
myself to the Will of God .
Our
hearts were filled with contentment as we trotted down. We kept our promise of
buying little curios from those girls and happily drove back to the hotel, too
eager to share our experience with our parents.
As
we were doing so, the manager of our
hotel joined us. He interrupted ,” I’m glad to know that you were lucky enough
to enter the Tiger’s Lair, but I’m afraid you have not completed the trail!” We
were taken aback by the statement. “ Have you visited the monasteries at the
back of the main temple? I believe then you would have taken more time!”
Yes,
he was right. We had not visited those temples. Simply because we neither hired
a guide, nor did we do any homework. Or maybe this was a divine cue for us. The
Energy wants us to make the trail again. This time, with the right spirit so
that we can complete it. Would you like to join us??? Get ready with a pair of good trekking shoes
and a heart strong enough to imbibe the energy. Then let us know!!!!
