Saturday 6 June 2015

God Business





 This year 22nd  of May was the twelfth marriage anniversary of my uncle and auntie. They decided to celebrate it along with their two boys at Jaganath Dham , aka Puri. They  took a flight to Bhuwaneshwar, the capital city of Odisha and reached their destination on that very day.

2015 or 1422 (as per Indian calendar) also happens to  be the year for the celebrations of the Nava- Kalevera ceremony. It is an auspicious event where the hearts of Sri Jaganath, his brother Balaram and his sister Subhadra  are replaced from one idol to another. Coincidentally my uncle and his family’s stay coincided with the phase of Daru (wood) change . On such auspicious occasions the temple remains closed in order to maintain sanctity. But luckily, my uncle and auntie got a chance to do a special Darshan as the temple had opened just for one hour early in the morning. The rest of their Odisha trip went smoothly. The children enjoyed the sea, my auntie satisfied her shopping spree and my uncle satiated his appetite for good food.

 They landed in Kolkata on 25th  of May and came to our place for the evening tea. While binging on gaaja, a special sweet from Puri, they started sharing their travel experiences.

Gradually the conversation drifted to the Pandas(God men) of Puri. As the discussion became more intense my mother suddenly pointed towards me and asked, “Remember that incident where we visited Puri temple with grandma. “ Oh yes! How could I forget that?” I answered . “ It was not just a hilarious episode but an eye-opener too.” “Really !” blurted my uncle.  I saw even my auntie was looking at me with round curious eyes. It meant I was expected to narrate the story. Therefore, in rumination I began:

Have you heard the contemporary Bengali song? “ Ma dekha de noi taka de” (Holy mother, either reveal yourself to us, or show some money to us. ). Our pilgrimage to Puri’s Jaganath temple compelled me to believe that, unless you monetarily satisfy the medium (guru),you won’t be able to commune or even see “dekha” the Goddess i.e. “ Ma”.
Hearing this my auntie exclaimed, “You are so true! What a lucrative business they have made out of it!” I smirked,  and continued.

We paid Rs.150 per head for a near view of the idols. Charges for the sacred food, personal  Panda(the priest who would guide us inside the temple) and auto fair were to be kept aside. Not only that, on touching the feet of individual deities each member of our family paid a homage of Rs.10. To this my uncle added, “ Now it’s Rs. 20. But the Pandas of the temple will bless you only if you pay Rs. 50 or more.” “Really!” we unanimously exclaimed and raised our eye brows. Then I was requested to resume.

After paying the sum we were asked to follow our hired Panda and repeat the holy enchantments which he uttered while revolving around the Gods. On completing the parikrama on the slimy floor, my Grandma touched Sri Jaganath’s feet ones again and donated another Rs. 10 note at his feet. According to the temple-panda that sum was just not adequate and he wasted no time to be vehemently vociferous about it.  My Grandma stood flummoxed while my father, being how he is, obstinately stuck to his stand----- either Rs. 10 or no money. The verbal dual went on for quite a few minutes . God knows where it would have led to if our Panda had not intervened as a mediator. He too had his own interest.  After all, other clients were waiting for him! But his efforts served no ends because this infuriated the resident panda furthermore .Moreover, all the resident pandas stationed near the idols ganged up against us and started using abuses and slang.

It turned into a cacophony worth public attention. While everybody directly or indirectly participated in this mayhem, my eyes fell on Subhadra’s idol.  She looked somewhat different. As I scanned on, I could spot a cockroach crawling up and down her nose. Poor she! Couldn’t even scream or throw away that irksome, creepy insect. All that she could do was to wait patiently for the resident panda to finish the monetary dispute. Then with the help of some divine providence turn to see her face.

  Being a woman myself, I couldn’t bear the sight anymore. Come on! I can’t imagine a cockroach crawling on my face. I had to do something about it and I did.
  I shook those money- monger pandas out of the dispute by shouting and pointing the cockroach on the Goddess's face. At first they didn’t even pay any heed. Only after a few moments when one of them noticed that the devotees were laughing at them, he looked at her and realised his mistake.

Thus the dispute came to an end. My father reminded them that their primary duty was to serve the Gods and not hackle over money. Saying that, all of us left the temple. This embarrassed the pandas and provided humour to the people around, but brought me face to face with a stark reality of life: Money is more coveted than Nirvana.

“And you are right indeed.”,said my uncle with a sigh. “Now a days you are not even eligible for bhog (holy food) if you don’t pay a homage of a minimum of Rs. 2000. It seems even God’s blessings are only meant for the wealthy ones.”