Pattaya..... A mixed bag of unforgettable experiences

Few hundred kilometers from Bangkok, Pattaya is a beach city renowned not only for its coastal lining but also for its epicurean mirth and lascivious indulgences. And that gives it the nick name: The Sin City.

We entered Pattaya late afternoon. I was surprised to notice that the city seemed to be just waking up from its beauty sleep. Most of the shops were closed only few restaurants were open and the streets were sparsely crowded. It seemed that a curfew had just been lifted. In short, it looked anything but the Pattaya I heard about….. Or was it the calm before the storm?

It was… it was…that I realized once I started strolling down the streets around six. It was evening twilight and the city was waking up, much like a blooming Night Queen. And I could feel how the tempo of the party beats escalated in my veins with every passing hour. My observant eyes could also spot many unfamiliar sights that pierced like shards into my “typical Indian eyes”. The first thing that caught my attention was the mismatched couples crawling across the streets and communicating in some coded language. This was followed by men (some of them quite elderly) showing pictures of women on display. I also came across a young grandfather of an illegitimate grandson. But what shattered my orthodox beliefs is the frankness of the people. Yes, Pattaya is one place where prostitution is legal. It is a profession as much as that of a gold smith’s, black smith’s, cobbler’s, sweeper’s, teacher’s, lawyer’s, doctor’s or an engineer’s. Like these professions, the sex workers here have licence , they maintain certain code of conduct, standard rates, they go through regular medical check up by the government and above all, they are protected by the law which is so much unlike India.

The Beach Road on which we were walking, ended to begin with a massive neon gateway written “ The Walking Street”. And once I stepped in, I felt that I was living in Tennyson’s “The Land of Lotos-Eaters”. To an onlooker it might seem to be a red light area but it is indeed a major tourist attraction for foreigners and Thai Nationals because it has a lot more to offer. This two kilometres stretch which wakes up only after the dusk and sleeps at the brink of the dawn is popular for its seafood restaurants, live music venues, beer bars, discotheque, sports bar, go-go bars and night clubs. Although “Walking Street “ is a part of Pattaya sightseeing package, as I could see tour guides leading groups of tourists as if they are doing march past. But this way, you can barely get an essence of this place. So I would suggest you to visit this place after nine, that too, on a Saturday night to taste its real flavour. But mind you, the way you leave your shoes outside a shrine, you should leave your “typical Indian mind-set” outside the large video signboard erected at the gateway. Then only you can groove to the tunes of the electrocuted atmosphere of this place. If you take it in the right spirit, you would feel like being in a carnival where you can let your heart out in the company of those who are really very close to you. However, I invariably saw a huge number of drooling men who have large libido and mighty ego but small pockets. A statuary warning for such men : Here all that is good to see is also nice to touch, but once you take the bait you would be charged and that would be quite a pocket pinch. Only and only window shopping comes at an affordable price.. And if you misbehave, there’s Tourist Police

understanding and speaking different languages. They usually park themselves at the entrance. These hawk eyed cops constantly patrol the entire area keeping everyone under check. They can even confiscate your passport if they suspect you of any crime.
Anyway, after some live music and song on demand, we jigged to hindi tunes at Toni’s club. Then we entered a bar which had Russian pole dancers. Gorgeous women coiling and slithering up and down the pole like snakes was a spectacle for my eyes. But each move came with a price and if you dare to touch these ladies you would be boxed and kicked out of the bar.

I really don’t know about the living condition of these women and their reason behind taking up this profession.  But have you ever thought who the real sinners are, even in the sin city? The people who are causing the sin, or the people who are committing sin or the ones who are mere instruments. In most of the cases, it is the instrument that suffers the maximum loss. Then why all the fingers are pointed only at them?

(II)

These are poses by the dancers of the famous Alcazar Cabaret Show. It is undoubtedly the most magnanimous cabaret show in Asia and one of the best amalgamations of dance drama and costume. The dancers started their performance with traditional Thai style of dance bejeweled in flamboyant costumes.This was followed by jazz, cabaret and Bollywood style. They also included a little comic dance drama  as a cherry on the cake.This show is a real feast to the eyes..... An extravaganza of entertainment.   

Can you imagine who these stunning beauties are? They are lady-boys whom we categorize as transgender. It is commendable to see how they are celebrating “who they are” in this state- of- art theater. They don’t have to beg. Instead the audiences book tickets to watch their performance. Isn’t it glorifying? They ended with a touching performance on a song with the following lyrics:“ The world is a beautiful place to begin with.” How poignant these words are! After all, we should bring the change we want to see.

On this account, I remember the incident where my colleague’s son got hooked in a scandal: It was his birthday. His roommate and other hostel mates had surprised him with cake in the middle of the night. They also ended up giving a shock to his parents by getting hold of his cell phone and updating his status: “I am 18 and I am gay!” This had made my colleague’s family furious. Later on the son had reverted to the status and explained his parents that it was a prank. But what if it were true? My colleague said, still she would remain her son. But, what about the family? What if, he had really belonged to the third-gender?
 According to the present Indian law, all the citizens of  India have equal right to all the opportunities. Recently, this has included the transgender as well. But, what about our mind-set which in turn makes the society? How many among us accept and respect a transgender for what he is? We shun at giving them alms and complain why they don’t earn their living. But till the recent past, there had hardly been any avenue for them to do so.

After the Alcazar Show the dancers came out to click pictures with the audiences. Even I didn’t miss the opportunity to be in the same frame with one of the ravishingly beautiful dancers. When I complemented z for z’s beauty I saw her eyes going moist with emotion. The expression was not like the seductive glances of those Russians at the go-go bar or the anxious stares of the ladies queued up on the pavements of the Walking Street anticipating the day’s business. Even that glance was far too different from the eunuchs begging for money in India. That lady-boy’s eyes were full of dignity and moist with gratitude… as though above all the adulation for her performance, some appreciation for what she was, was the only thing that she wanted to hear…. It was all that mattered to her.     

(III)

Chef Tim of Hotel Avista, in Phuket had wittily instructed us: “Visit Sanctuary of Truth to wash off

your sins from Walking Street!” Jokes apart, in reality, we could feel that he was mesmerized by the architectural magnificence of this place. But even after entering, little did we expect what we were about to see. Only after a tall and slender lady-boy had helped me wrap a sarong round my waist and directed us to climb down a flight of wooden stairs, we came to realise the grandeur of this spot.

A magnanimous wooden temple posed in front of us, keeping Andaman Sea as a challenging backdrop. We were simply rapt in awe. None of us could see the Taj Mahal in making, right! I was feeling accomplished for; here at least we could see the pain and labour and innovation involved in construing such a monument of equal stature. Walking through the intrinsically etched galleries with deities in their various forms, many among which were carved out of sandal wood and rose wood was a sheer treat for the senses.

The most surprising aspect of this temple is: no nails are being used to raise this grand sanctuary of 

craftsmanship.Either the blocks are fitted into each other so that they don't slip off and the pillars can be raised. Or, a special adhesive is used to permanently fix the statues.

 Moreover, the builders have to constantly fight against the salinity of the sea that stands as a big threat to the timber from Myanmar that is predominantly used for constructing this monument. Some parts are carved out of sandal wood and rose wood as well. But, after all nothing is impossible for a willing heart. And this we realized from there craftsmen who are working day and night doing and redoing the drawing, designing, cutting, etching etc. as if, that’s the quintessence of their lives. I believe, this is worship in its own sense….a divine meditation.

Nobody knows, when the construction of this temple would be complete. But seeing this grand monument in its making is no less achievement. Indeed, The Sanctuary of Truth is a marvel of architectural craftsmanship.  

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